When in Rome...
A 9 day excursion to Rome and the Amalfi Coast of Italy with Kelsey and Nikki during Holy Week/Spring Break
03.28.2012 - 04.06.2012
75 °F
View
The Excursion of a Lifetime
on josh.pierce06's travel map.
Suspense kills...
The time leading up to this trip was probably the most excited I have been since leaving for Spain at the beginning of the semester. The suspense was killing me, and the fact that I would be spending the week with two amazing girls from home made it even better. My plan was to leave real early Thursday morning for my 6:50 flight, and meet the girls in Rome Friday afternoon, but because of the huge strike (huelga in Spanish) in Spain that Thursday, my señora and professors all warned us not to rely on public transportation that day and recommended that I head to the airport the night before. I wasn’t too big on the idea of spending a night in the airport before I had even left Seville, but the last thing I wanted to do was miss my flight, so I decided to take their advice.
Day 1/2...Haven't Even Left Yet
Wednesday night came around and it was time to start packing. Packing for 9 days on the road in a backpack is one of the tougher things I’ve ever had to figure out on my own, but as a guy with few necessities, I managed to get everything I needed in one bag. Aside from what I was already wearing, I packed a pair of black dress shoes (my first mistake), an extra pair of jeans, a t-shirt for almost every day, pair of athletic shorts and swim trunks, and socks and boxers for each day. Other than clothes, I threw in my camera, small computer that my buddy Jon let me borrow for the week, my Ipod, some survival candy, 4 bocadillos (sandwiches) made by my señora, and some other small things. It all fit once I figured out it was better to stuff things in my shoes and roll my clothes to conserve space. When 11:30 p.s. came around, it was time to venture to the train station, which is about a 3 minute walk from my house, in order to catch the last bus to the airport before the strike started at midnight. I wasn’t too enthused, but the excitement played a greater role and I managed.
I got to the airport and the first people I saw were my friends CJ and Lindsay, who said that their flight got canceled because of the strike and that they would be on the same flight as me to Rome. Things were already getting better. This meant that I would get to attempt to sleep at the airport and not have to worry about my bag getting stolen because there was no way all 3 of us would be able to fall asleep uncomfortably on the airport bench at the same time.
Day 1...When in Rome Alone...
I managed to get a couple hours of terrible sleep, and before we knew it, it was 5:00 a.m. and the gate for customs had opened. We got on our 6:50 flight, and it worked out so that we could all sit by each other on the plane. There’s nothing fun about flying alone, so I wasn't opposed to this. We landed around 9:30 at Rome Ciampino airport and caught a shuttle for the 45 minute ride to Rome, finally making it to the Termini train station at about 11:00 a.m. We split off and I made the trek to my hostel, using the directions I had written up the night before.
I checked into my hostel and decided I would get a start on seeing the city since the girls wouldn’t be arriving until the next day around 1:00 p.m. Aimlessly walking, I found the coliseum first, so I got some pictures and hung out outside of it for about an hour people-watching and eating one of my bocadillos. I walked through a few of the different piazzas (plazas) to kill some time before going back to my hostel to get settled in and get some rest.

I ended up meeting my hostelmate, Ernesto, who was from London and had been there for a day already, so we decided to go out and venture the city together that night. All of the monuments and sights of Rome looked 10 times better when lit up at night, and we didn’t have to deal with the hassle of thousands of tourists in the way of pictures and stuff. We had heard the cheapest place to get food was in a part of the city across the river called Trastevere, so we made our way over there to get some pizza for dinner. The pizza here in Italy is a little different than the pizza we’re all used to in the states. There’s no stuffed crust, it’s not loaded with meat and vegetables. It’s actually rather thin, and barely fills you up…Well at least someone with an appetite like mine. My constant struggle when eating out in Europe is trying to pick something I know will fill me up, and more times than not, I fail…Great feeling to know I’m paying more than I should for less than what fills me up. Nonetheless, it’s always delicious. I looked for something with more toppings than the others and the pizza I decided to get was actually pretty interesting. Called pizza “cappriciosa,” it came with black olives, sausage, mushrooms, artichoke, and egg. I was a little throw off by the egg at first but hey, can’t go wrong with a little extra protein. When I got the pizza, all of the toppings were separate, which was rather strange, and right in the middle of the pizza was an egg, not hard boiled, not fried, but it appeared as if it had been cracked halfway through the cooking process and resembled an egg cooked over easy right in the middle of my pizza. Without question, this was one of the better pizzas I’ve eaten in my day.

After pizza, it was still early, so we walked to the Trevi Fountain, which was one of the most amazing things I have seen in my life, especially when lit up at night. We found some gelato ice cream, so I couldn’t not get it…it turned out to be the best ice cream I’ve ever had, which was kind of expected as Italy is known for its authentic gelato.

Day 2
The next morning, I had to check out of my hostel at 10, so I said farewell to Ernesto and wished him safe travels throughout the next month of his backpacking journey around Europe. I found M&J hostel, which was the hostel I had reserved for the next 3 nights with the girls, so I left my bag there and ventured the city alone once again. I took a different route, seeing parts of the city I hadn’t had a chance to see the day before. I found my way to the Spanish Steps and a few other piazzas, stopping to relax and have a bocadillo in Piazza di Copulo. I killed just enough time to make it back to the hostel to meet the girls right when they had arrived. We walked around and explored the city that we would take on over the next few days, walking past the coliseum and some of the amazing little piazzas.

We found a place to sit down and get some pizza, which was the second of many times I would experience authentic Italian pizza during the week. We walked through some of the different buildings, and randomly happened to see my friends CJ and Lindsay from about a block away. I don’t know what it was or how I saw them, but it must have been the green Packer jerseys they were wearing that caught my eyes. I introduced them to Kelsey and Nikki and we decided to make plans to meet up later that night for some drinks. When the girls and I got back to the hostel we showered and met our hostelmate, Andre, who was from Sao Paolo, Brazil and was on a 2 month backpacking journey throughout Europe himself. We invited him out with us, and ended up meeting up with CJ and Lindsay at a bar for some pitchers. It was a lot to take in at once, as I was chilling in Rome with 2 friends from Whitewater, randomly met up with 2 friends from Seville, and our new Brazilian friend was tagging along. Small world to say the least.
Day 3
The first thing we did when we woke up was check out the 3 euro breakfast at the café downstairs. For being advertised as all-you-can eat, I had some pretty big hopes until we got there and saw that there were just some croissants, cereal, ham and cheese, and tea, OJ, and water. I made it worth my 3 euros and ate enough to hold me over for quite a while. We decided the first thing we were going to do was see the coliseum, so we walked there and let this guy talk us into a 27 euro tour, which consisted of that, Paletine, which is the ruins of an old Roman city, and the Roman Forums. It all turned out to be worth it, and I definitely got way more out of the visit than if we chose not to pay for the tour.


On the walk home, we stopped at a supermarket to grab some wine and sandwich supplies…essentials for a budget like mine. We decided that this would be the night we would dress up and get a nice dinner, so we got ready and took a bus to Trastavere for a late pasta dinner and some drinks. This was hands down the best pasta I had ever eaten in my life, which is expected in these parts I guess. We got back to our hostel rather late and met our hostelmates, who were from New Zealand. They were about the same age as us, so it didn’t take long to make friends with them and they turned out to be a great time. We tried walking to a bar that was apparently open late, but after an hour of searching, we came to the conclusion that this was an inexistent bar and we should probably give up. Upon getting back to our hostel at some ridiculous hour of the night, an older guy wakes up from one of the top bunks and he was wearing a Broncos shirt. We gave him crap for not being a Packer fan, and were in awe when he said that he actually grew up in Kenosha and the Packers were his first choice as a favorite team, and that he just lived in Denver for his job. He jumps out of bed and decides he wants to have some drinks with us. “Bronco” turned out to be a riot and he loved us, so we all converse and have a good time for a while before passing out.

Day 4
We didn’t wake up until 1 p.m. the next day, and by the time we got moving, it was already 3 p.m. We made some sandwiches for the day and ventured to see the Trevi Fountain since the girls still hadn’t seen it. We got some pictures and were sure to throw a coin over our left shoulder. Legend has it, if you do this, you are guaranteed to return to Rome someday, so there was no way we could pass this up. We splurged for some ice cream and then made our way to the Spanish Steps. There were hundreds of people sitting on the steps, so it was hard to get a good picture, but they all seemed to have the right idea. We followed suit and sat down to relax and eat some bocadillos. After this we decided to search for some more of the less common sights in Rome we had read about, such as the Mouth of Truth and the priceless keyhole view of St. Peter's Basilica...the keyhole view was amazing, as it was a perfect shot through the shrubs with an amazing view of the basilica dome.

Later that evening, we got back to the hostel to find out we had a new hostelmate, who had taken “Bronco’s” spot. Her name was Apolline, and she was French. She seemed a bit nervous and timid at first, but it didn’t take the 3 of us and our New Zealand roommates long to get her to loosen up a bit with some cheap wine. We all ended up having a great time without even leaving the hostel that night, exchanging different games that would keep us occupied for the next few hours. We ended up getting yelled at by the hostel night receptionist for being too loud so late at night, so we decided to call it quits for the night and pass out.
Day 5
When Monday morning came around, our time in Rome had ended quicker than we had hoped. Our next destination was to head to the Amalfi Coast so we woke up early and checked out in order to catch our train to Naples. It was a 2 hour ride, and when we got there, we had to figure out how to jump on a local train to Sorrento. What seemed too good to be true, an older guy at the train station had overheard us talk about Sorrento and helped us get our tickets and find the place where we would have to catch the next train. We would have never figured it out in a timely manner on our own, so this guy turned out to be a great help, but when we got to the spot where we would catch the train, it turns out it was too good to be true…he turned out to be a bum beggar who asked us for 10 euros each for the “help.” There was no way any of us could swing this, so we did what we could and gave him a smaller amount…much less than the 10 each he was asking. I felt bad, but there was nothing I could do. The ride ended up being another hour by train. When we got to Sorrento, we had to figure out how to get to the village our next stay was in. I had found directions online prior to the trip that said take a SITA bus, which was a local bus to the village of Nettuno. The bus took us on an hour roller coaster ride through the mountains by windy roads and dropped us off right in front of Villagio Resort Nettuno…too convenient, as this was where we had reservations for the next 2 nights.
I didn’t know what to expect when we got there, but when we checked in, it turned out to be a small private bungalow with an AMAZING ocean view. It was the smallest little house I’ve ever seen, but complete with everything one would need for a small peaceful vacation. There were 3 small beds and a king size bed, a kitchen complete with dishes, stove, and fridge, and a bathroom. On the patio was a table and chair set with some reclining beach chairs also.

We checked out the place real quick and got to the beach as quickly as possible. The beach wasn’t exactly what I had expected, as it was a rocky beach, much different than any I had ever seen before. Though there was no sand, I wasn’t let down one bit. I had been here for 15 minutes and this was already atop the list of the most beautiful places I have ever been in my life. The mountainous coast and the villages strategically built on the sides of these mountains was the most intriguing thing I had seen since I had been in Europe.

After passing some time taking in the amazing view and the idea of where we actually were, we figured it was time for a bite to eat. We had been traveling all day and hadn’t eaten anything since the sub-par breakfast we had at the café before checking out of our hostel that morning, so we decided to head up to the restaurant of the little resort we were staying at… I’m the kind of person that always likes to try something new so what do I do? Of course not order something else besides pizza…Once again, nothing on the menu sounded better than pizza, so that’s what we got, but I decided to switch up the toppings, and go with some other kind I couldn't pronounce. The rest of the night was pretty much a chill night. I had brought my buddy Jon’s small laptop and my external hard drive so we decided to relax and watch a movie so that the next day we could get up early and have a long, productive day.
Day 6
Tuesday morning, we woke up around 8:00 and ate our leftover pizza for breakfast and set out for an adventure. We packed a backpack with water, some munchies, and some other small things and went to the reception office to ask for a good place to walk to. They rattled off a few different routes that would put us up on top of the nearby mountains so I was immediately satisfied. We were told that there was a “sandy beach” on the other side of the mountain, which was supposed to be the only one on the coast for miles. They said it would be a couple hour hike, so we set off for our adventure.

We made it to the walking trail on the side of the mountain. It took almost 2 hours to get to the point that I had set as my goal destination as soon as we arrived, and I was in love with this place. The view from up there was AMAZING. I could look straight down and see the waves crashing up against the rocks, look another direction and see an even bigger mountain, or look the other way and see the most amazing coast I have ever seen in my life accompanied by a few small coastal villages built on the mountains.

We took some pictures, attempted to climb into the old coastguard tower by the Napoli Kingdom back in the day but it was locked, and then continued our trek to the “sandy beach.” We followed a few signs, and finally found it. At first I was thrown for a bit of a curveball, as it was no longer than about 50 feet of coast in this little bay, and there wasn’t much for sand. Once we walked down there, we saw that it was a little sandy, but nothing like the sandy beaches we all know of. We hung out here and took in the sun for a few hours, but the water was too cold for me to be convinced to go in.

After chilling at the beach for a while, we decided to start heading back since we were all so hungry. We stopped at this little shop in a small village we passed through and bought some pasta, since our place had a kitchen. As amazing as the girls are, they cooked a pasta meal for a late lunch, which was pretty good, and great for my financial situation.
After eating, we decided that we should probably figure out our plans for the rest of the trip, so we went to the office and asked Tina, the extremely helpful receptionist for recommendations. She recommended we see Positano and Amalfi, which we had heard were 2 of the most beautiful coastal villages we would ever see. It didn’t take much convincing, so we decided to go with this. We booked a hostel back in Sorrento, which is the city where the SITA buses centralize and run from, and then decided to take another adventure, this time to the other side of the beach. We found another walking trail and took that along the coast for a mile or two. Along the way, we stumbled upon another old defense tower, but this one, we could actually climb in, which was real cool. We climbed to the top and took some pictures while taking in the amazing view. Continuing, we ended up near a boat landing where we saw some fishermen. One of our goals for the trip was to find some locals who could take us out in their boat, and we thought that if there was any chance of this happening, now was our chance. We approached them as they were emptying out their net, appearing as if they had no luck at all. We tried to talk with them but they didn’t know Spanish or English, so communication was really difficult. One thing about trips like these is that no matter what, it is always possible to communicate, even if it’s not verbally or in a broken language. I feel like this is one of the best things I have learned while abroad is how to communicate with someone who doesn’t speak the same languages as me, and this is something I will always be able to apply in life, especially in the working world with as international as things have become in the past few years. When it started getting dark, we headed back and made the leftover pasta from lunch, had a few drinks, and passed out, exhausted after such a long day.
Day 7
The next day we woke up super early in order to clean up the place, pack, and catch the 9:00 bus to Sorrento. After a 1 hour ride through the mountains, we finally arrived to the station in Sorrento, and walked a few blocks to Hostel Le Sirene, the place Tina at the last resort had helped us book. We dropped our bags off quickly and then headed back to the station to catch the first bus to Positano, which was another 1 hour ride. When we got to Positano, I couldn’t believe what I was seeing before my eyes. This was hands down the most beautiful place I had ever seen in my life. Between two huge mountains right on the coast, was a small city with buildings constructed basically on top of each other all of the way up from the coast, and at the bottom was a nice beach.

The bus stop was at the top of the hill, so we had to take the zig-zag streets all the way down to the bottom, through the village. The first thing we did was get some food, as we found a restaurant right along the beach where we could get pizzas for take-out. We grabbed some pizzas and took them to the beach, relaxing in the sun as we indulged in yet another Italian pizza. By this time I had lost count how many times I had eaten pizza that week, but it wasn’t a problem for me at all…it never gets old.

On the beach, we met some guys studying in Barcelona from the Midwest, so we started talking with them, and after an hour or 2 we realized they were feeling just as adventurous as we were. They mentioned something about cliff-jumping, and that if we found a place, they would be down. As terrified of heights as I am, of course I was down…I would probably only be on the Amalfi Coast just this one time in my life. We asked a few locals where a good spot to cliff-jump would be and some looked at us like we were idiots, some couldn’t understand our English, and others pointed us in the direction of another small village, Amalfi. The only destination that sounded promising, Amalfi it was.
We caught the next bus heading that direction, and a half hour later we had arrived in yet another beautiful coast town. It was getting late in the day so the first thing we did was ask some local kids where the best place to jump from was, and they laughed a bit and then took us about a half mile down the coast and pointed up. There it was…it looked high, but they said they had done it before, so we were definitely interested. Using broken Spanish, they tried to explain to us that we would have to swim across about 40 feet to the rock we would then have to climb up, and then said that it was roughly 13 meters up, which is roughly 43 feet. I definitely didn’t want to be the first one to go, so the 3 guys we met from Barcelona went first, and after going with no problem, I was convinced. Nikki and I swam across and started climbing. She led the way, scaling the rock wall like a monkey without any problem, and I tried to stay close behind. Climbing barefoot was tough enough in itself, and on top of that, it seemed to be almost straight up to a certain point. I got about halfway up and looked down as I started to doubt myself, but knew there was no going back at this point, because working my way back down would be more dangerous than anything with the waves coming in against the rocks. I quickly grew a pair and worked my way the rest of the way to the top where I could catch my breath. One of the other guys went before me, and I didn’t want more time to think about it and doubt myself so I had no problem going right after him. I walked up to the ledge, glanced down once, for no longer than a second and jumped. It felt like I was in the air for a couple seconds and then hit the water. It was pretty intense, and quite an amazing adrenaline rush to say the least. I swam to the shore and caught my breath once more. As much as I wanted to do it again, the water was freezing and it was so much work climbing my way up, I decided not to but it was definitely one of the better experiences of the whole trip. I have never done anything like this in my life. I loved it, and am excited to jump from another rock like that, hopefully this coming weekend in Lagos, Portugal.

By the time we had done this and dried off, the sun was going down, and it was almost time to catch our bus back to Sorrento. We had a little time to kill, so we grabbed some bocadillos at a local restaurant and got them to take on the bus.


We all passed out on the bus pretty quickly, and an hour and a half later, we had arrived in Sorrento…exhausted. The girls and I walked to our hostel and later that night checked out an Irish bar as we were walking around the city. We tried shots of Limoncello, which is a local alcohol very common in this part of Italy, as there were lemon trees everywhere. We didn’t spend much time out that night since we were all so tired from the long day, so we passed out in order to wake up super early the next day and be productive.
Day 8
Thursday morning had arrived quickly, and it was time to check out and get on the road. We were lucky enough to get free breakfast included with our hostel, but it wasn’t anything more than a roll and a coffee, which seems to be the typical breakfast of champions in these parts. We took a couple different trains and finally arrived back in Rome around noon that day. The first thing we did was went back to the hostel we originally stayed at and ended up negotiating a cheap room with them, since they had raised the prices for Easter weekend from 20 euros a person/night to 30. The manager was pretty easy to work with, so we ended up getting one rather cheap. We dropped off our bags in the room, and made our way to the Vatican, since we weren’t able to see it when we were in Rome over the weekend. We took a city bus there, and as soon as we got there, I was intrigued. This place was amazing…huge!! We took some pictures outside and then went inside St. Peter’s Basilica, which is the huge chapel part of the Vatican. I was in awe the whole time. Pictures can’t even explain this place…It’s something everyone needs to see for themselves in order to be fortunate enough to understand how amazing it really is. We spent about 2 hours here, and then headed back to the hostel to make some dinner. We had pasta left over from earlier in the week, so the girls cooked dinner and we called it a relaxing night.

Day 9...Homeward Bound
Since the girls had to be up and out the door by 4:00 a.m. for their flight back to Madrid, we were in bed early. They woke me up at 4 as they were heading out the door to say bye. Just like that, 8 days with the girls had already come and passed. As long and exhausting as the week was, it seemed like it flew by at the same time. I wished them a safe rest of their trip and flight back to the states and then went back to bed as they headed out the door.
I couldn’t really sleep because I was afraid I was going to sleep in on accident and miss my flight, even though I had set 4 alarms on my Ipod. After about an hour, I finally passed out and the morning came sooner than ever. I jumped up at the sound of my first alarm and in a matter of minutes I was ready to check out and grab some breakfast. Once again, I grabbed a tray of the mediocre breakfast at the café downstairs and headed to the train station for my bus. I got to the airport and had about an hour and a half of free time to spare before I could finally board my flight, but I couldn’t nap as tired as I was in fear of missing my flight…my one and only fear of flying alone. I kept myself occupied on my Ipod and the time to board finally came. Immediately after boarding the plan, I passed out and didn’t wake up until just before we landed. The 2 ½ hour flight felt like a matter of minutes, which was perfect…just how I had hoped it would go. I caught a bus back to the Seville train station and walked the 3 min back to my house.
I was relieved to be home. Not just exhausted, but 9 days of traveling makes for a lotttt of stress. As much fun as I had, it was nice to finally get home and just sit down with nothing to do. I finally had a chance to look back on the last week and take it all in. I had finally been able to cross a number of things off my bucket list all at once. The things I got to see and do throughout this trip are priceless, and things I will remember for the rest of my life. See the Vatican…check. Coliseum…check. Amalfi Coast…check. Cliff-jump…check. Climb a mountain…check. Just a few of the amazing things I got to experience, it’s safe to say I had more fun on this trip than I imagined myself having over the course of a whole semester abroad. The Amalfi Coast and Rome top the list as 2 of my favorite places in the world, and the Positano, along with the rest of the Amalfi Coast is hands down the most beautiful, most amazing place I have ever been in my life.
Posted by josh.pierce06 04.10.2012 10:47 Archived in Italy Comments (1)

























